How to Solder Silver Part 1

When you are done reading through these guides, you will be able to start soldering silver. Sodering is another process for joining jewelry. Please look at my guide on fusing silver if you would like to learn another joining method. Don’t get discouraged, it take a lot of time to learn. When I first started making jewelry, soldering was the process I hated most, now I am proficient at it. Pictures will be added to these guides in the future because everything has been packed away in order for us to move.

First the issue of safety has to be addressed. It is very important that when you prepare and while you solder you observe some safety guidelines.

1. Set up your workstation with safety in mind. Make sure you can set your torch in its stand somewhere away from where your hands will be moving. 6000F is very hot and will burn you right to the bone if you get into the path of your torch. Be sure to make all movements smooth and sensible and make sure you know what is happening on your bench at all times. Remember that crowded and cluttered benches do not mix well with torch fire. There could easily be a fire on your bench if you do not stay organized.
2. Make sure that you have adequate ventilation. A vacuum hood works wonders, but is expensive and not readily used for simple soldering by home jewelers. A steady flow of air over your bench from a window or fan works very well for ventilation. When silver gets hot, it releases fumes and chemicals that will make you sick. It’s called metal fume fever and believe me, you don’t want it to happen. In some cases of extreme exposure, you could die. If you do not have good ventilation, a respirator with an organic and chemical filter can be substituted, but is restrictive and uncomfortable. Adequate ventilation is always preferred.
3. Safety glasses must be used. Metals do interesting things when heated, and may explode when internal temperature fluctuates rapidly. A face shield can be used in addition to your safety glasses, but if the job you are doing is small it most likely will not be needed.
4. Stretch. It’s a simple thing that can save you from developing a repetitive movement and stress injury. 5 minutes of stretching every hour should prevent your hands and wrists from fatigue and give you a much needed break. It doesn’t take a lot of time and saves you from a recovery period of weeks, maybe even months, after an injury.

Use common sense. The things you are working on are hot. Some chemicals you will use are dangerous. You will be using acid. Be careful, and use your head. If something doesn’t seem safe, its not. If you don’t act with safety in mind, you will get hurt.

Next, I will cover some of the more common tools and supplies used for soldering. This is likely not an all encompassing list, but will get you started.

1. A torch. The torch is the most necessary tool in the jewelers bag. The type of torch you use depends on the job you have to complete. Some common torches are:

1. Oxygen-Acetylene. My torch of choice because the temperature of the flame. The 3^rd hottest torch on this list but has a tendency to leave soot and oxidation on work. Fluxes are a must.
2. Oxygen-Propane. Burns much cleaner than the acetylene variety but has a cooler flame. Flux must still be used, but in smaller quantities.
3. Hydrogen. Uses an electrolyzer to separate hydrogen from oxygen in water. The most expensive torch on this list is also the hottest and cleanest. Because there are no tanks of stored combustible gases, this torch is very safe. The hydrogen is used right after it is separated so most apartment leases can allow a hydrogen torch.
4. Butane/propane. Usually in the form of pencil torches, the cheapest and least hot torch can be used for a variety of small soldering jobs. A butane/propane torch seems to meet most peoples needs nicely.

1. Fire brick, or brick of charcoal. Used as a base for holding your work. Using a charcoal block helps eliminate the oxidizing atmosphere of your torch. Also reflects heat back to your soldering joint and keeps your bench from burning.
2. Pickle and pickle pot. Pickle is an acid that cleans fire scale and oxidation from soldered silver. It works best when warmed in a small crock. Hot silver must not be dropped into the pickle solution because the acid will absorb into the silver as it cools. Always allow your work to cool before placing in your pickle.
3. Striker or lighter. To light your torch.
4. Titanium soldering pick. Used for holding and positioning solder of your workpiece.
5. Third hand tool. Can be a great help for holding and positioning your work.
6. Iron binding wire. Used to tie work together and hold joints close while soldering.
7. Jar of water. To wash pickle solution from silver parts.
8. Tweezers. Used to hold and position silver to be soldered. A copper tweezers/tong must be use to retrieve silver from the pickle solution.
9. Solder. Can be paste, wire or sheet. Paste solder has flux in it and is squeezed out of a syringe on to work. Wire is fed onto the joint as it melts and sheet is cut up into tiny pieces and place on the silver to be soldered. There are 3 classes of solder. Easy, medium and hard. The type and class of solder used depends on the job you will be doing.
10. Flux. Keeps your solder from oxidizing. Pre made acid flux and paste flux can be bought, or can be made from a mixture of borax and alcohol. If you make your own it can be made thin or thick depending on your personal preference.
11. Organic bristle paint brush. Used to apply flux to the silver joint.

I’ll end part one with one other hint. You have to have good lighting. Ott lights do a great job of lighting up my workstation.

Now that you are done with the first part, please head over to How To Solder Silver Part 2.

Please see my other guide on setting up your workstation for other tips on tools and supplies. Check my other guide out if you would like to see how to build a jewelers bench. There will be other items I add to this list later on.